Ladder Inspection Checklist: How to Check Your Ladder Before Every Use

Ladders fail more often from neglect than from any design flaw. A hairline crack in a rung, a worn-smooth foot, or a hinge that no longer locks can give way without warning — usually at the worst moment. The fix costs nothing but a minute of your time.

This is your complete inspection checklist. You will learn what to check on every part of the ladder, the extra checks for each ladder type, and the clear signs that mean it is time to retire a ladder for good. Make this a habit and you remove one of the most preventable causes of falls. 👍

🔍 Why inspect every time

Ladders take a beating — dropped, leaned, left in the sun, stored in damp garages. Damage builds up invisibly, and a part that was fine last month can be compromised today. An inspection before every use (not just once a year) is the only way to catch a problem before it becomes a fall. It takes under a minute and it is the single cheapest safety habit you can build. Workplaces are legally required to inspect ladders for exactly this reason; your home deserves the same care.

✅ The part-by-part checklist

Rungs and steps

Look for cracks, bends, or dents, and make sure each rung is tight where it meets the rail. Check that the slip-resistant surface is intact — worn-smooth or greasy steps are a slip risk. Wipe off any mud, paint, or oil before climbing.

Side rails

Inspect both rails for bends, dents, splits, or cracks. On fiberglass, look for surface “bloom” (exposed fibers) or deep gouges; on aluminum, look for dents that could weaken the rail; on wood, look for splits and never trust a painted-over wood rail that may hide cracks.

Locks, spreaders & hinges

Open the ladder and confirm the spreader braces (step ladders) lock flat, the rung locks (extension ladders) seat fully, and the hinges (multi-position) click firmly into place. Any lock that feels loose, sticky, or does not fully engage is a serious red flag.

Feet and shoes

Check that both feet are present and gripping — worn-smooth or missing slip-resistant pads are a top cause of base slides. On extension ladders, make sure the swivel safety shoes move freely and the spurs (for soft ground) are intact.

Ropes, pulleys & hardware

On extension ladders, inspect the rope and pulley for fraying and smooth operation. Across all ladders, check that rivets, bolts, and braces are tight and none are missing. Loose or absent hardware means the ladder is not safe.

Labels

Confirm the duty-rating and warning labels are present and readable. They tell you (and anyone who borrows it) the weight rating and material — important safety information that should never be painted over or removed.

🔧 Extra checks by ladder type

• Step ladders: spreaders lock flat; the top cap and pail shelf are secure (and not used as steps).
• Extension ladders: rung locks engage on both sides; rope/pulley run smoothly; sections slide without binding; safety shoes swivel.
• Multi-position ladders: every hinge locks with a firm click; leg levelers ratchet and hold; wheels (if fitted) are secure.
• Telescoping ladders: each section locks with a clear indicator; the rungs collapse smoothly without sticking.
• Attic ladders: hinges, springs/struts, and mounting hardware are tight; sections sit flat with no twist.

🚫 When to retire a ladder

Some damage is beyond repair. Retire (and destroy or clearly mark) a ladder if it has any of these:

• A cracked or bent rung or rail — never “just use the other rungs.”
• Cracked, gouged, or fiber-exposed fiberglass rails.
• A lock, spreader, or hinge that will not fully engage.
• Missing feet or worn-smooth slip pads that cannot be replaced.
• It was dropped from height or exposed to fire/chemicals.

A ladder is cheap; a fall is not. When in doubt about damage, retire it. No repair shortcut is worth the risk of a rung giving way mid-climb.

📅 How often to inspect

Before every use — the quick 60-second scan above. In addition, give each ladder a thorough inspection a few times a year (and after any drop or hard use), checking hardware tightness and rope/pulley wear in detail. Workplaces should keep written inspection records; at home, a habit is enough. Store ladders properly between uses (dry, out of the sun, hung up) so there is less to find at the next inspection.

🔒 Keep a safe ladder on hand

If your inspection retires an old ladder, replace it with a quality, well-built one — and grab the covers that protect it between uses.

❓ Frequently asked questions

✅ Printable quick checklist

• Rungs/steps: no cracks, bends, or grease
• Rails: no bends, splits, dents, or exposed fibers
• Locks/spreaders/hinges: engage fully and firmly
• Feet: present, intact, and gripping
• Rope/pulley and hardware: smooth and tight
• Labels: present and readable
• Any failure = tag it and take it out of service

🏢 Inspection requirements at work

In the workplace, ladder inspection is not optional — it is a documented safety requirement. OSHA expects ladders to be inspected for visible defects on a periodic basis and after any event that could affect their safe use, such as a fall, a drop, or exposure to chemicals or heat. Damaged ladders must be immediately tagged “Do Not Use” and removed from service until repaired or replaced, and many employers go further with scheduled inspections and a competent person responsible for the program. The reasoning is simple: in a busy work environment, ladders take heavy use and pass through many hands, so a structured inspection routine is the only reliable way to catch damage before it causes an injury. Even if you are a homeowner with no legal obligation, borrowing this discipline — a quick check before every use and a thorough one periodically — brings the same protection to your own garage.

📒 Keeping inspection records

For workplaces (and for anyone who wants to be thorough), keeping a simple inspection record adds real value. A record can be as basic as a tag or log noting the date, the inspector, and the result, or as formal as a checklist filed for each ladder. Records do three useful things: they prove inspections are actually happening, they reveal patterns over time (a ladder that keeps developing problems may be due for retirement), and they create accountability so the job does not get quietly skipped. Some teams attach a small inspection tag directly to each ladder, initialed and dated at each check, so anyone about to climb can see at a glance that it was recently cleared. At home you do not need paperwork, but a mental note — or a sticker on a problem-prone ladder — helps you track anything you are keeping an eye on.

🔬 Spotting hidden damage

The most dangerous damage is the kind you do not immediately see, so train your eye for the subtle signs. On fiberglass, look for fine surface cracks, deep scratches, or a rough, whitish “bloom” where the resin has worn away to expose fibers — a sign the rail is weakening. On aluminum, watch for small dents, kinks, or bends that can concentrate stress, and check rungs for any twist. On wood, run your hand along the rails to feel for splits and never trust a wood ladder that has been painted with opaque paint, since paint can hide cracks. Everywhere, check the joints and rivets for play or corrosion, and flex the ladder gently to listen for creaks or feel for movement that should not be there. When something feels “off” even if you cannot quite see why, trust that instinct — a ladder that does not feel solid usually is not.

🆕 Inspecting a used or borrowed ladder

Buying secondhand or borrowing a ladder calls for extra care, because you do not know its history. Before trusting it, do a full inspection as if your life depends on it — because it does: check every rung and rail for cracks and bends, confirm all locks, hinges, and spreaders engage firmly, verify the feet are present and gripping, and look for the duty-rating label so you know its limits. Ask the owner whether it was ever dropped or exposed to chemicals or fire, any of which can invisibly compromise it. Be especially wary of a very cheap used ladder with no certification label or obvious wear — the savings are not worth the risk. If a borrowed or secondhand ladder shows any structural damage or you simply cannot verify its condition, do not use it. A new, certified ladder is inexpensive compared to the cost of trusting an unknown one.

❓ More frequently asked questions

Related guides on Best Ladders Review

• How to Use a Ladder Safely
• Ladder Fall Prevention
• Best Ladder Accessories